How do I make Bath Bombs?
Bath Bomb Recipes
Moldable Bath Bombs
- 1 cup Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate)
- 1/2 cup Citric Acid
- 1/2 cup Corn Starch
- 1/3 cup Epsom Salts
- 2 1/2 Tablespoon Vegetable Oil, sweet almond oil, or other light oil
- 1 Tablespoon water
- 1 teaspoon fragrance oil
- 10 to 12 drops FD&C Colors
Mix all the dry ingredients together until you get a smooth blend. Adding Epsom salts adds a bit of shine to the bomb and will make the fizzing action more vigorous. It also seems to shorten the drying time required. Set aside dry mixture while you prepare the wet ingredients.
Slowly pour the wet ingredients into the dry mixture and mix well with your hands. This mixture is dry and has to be packed in the molds quite firmly to keep shape. If you add any other ingredients (such as herbs, Epsom salts or dried flowers) you may need to add a bit more oil or water, but be careful not to add too much as this makes the bombs soggy and harder to dry.
Press mixture into balls or molds and let set for 2 hours. Pop out of molds and let dry for 24 - 48 hours. Pack in cello bags to present to friends or sell. Be creative and have fun!
Fizzing Bath Balls
1/4 cup baking soda
2 Tablespoon citric acid
1 Tablespoon salt
2 Tablespoon powdered sugar
2 Tablespoon almond oil
1 Tablespoon vitamin E oil
1/4 Tablespoon fragrance oil
Combine dry ingredients in bowl and stir till blended. Drizzle in oil and stir till moist. Add Vitamin E and stir well. Take teaspoon sized mixture and form balls. Place on waxed paper and leave 2-3 hours. Let air dry 10 days and then store in air tight container.
How to Make a Candle "Throw"
Making your Candle Throw (or cast its fragrance over a wide area) is the goal of Fragranced Candles. This is not hard to achieve if you understand the basic parameters. There are 5 things to consider when making a successfully Fragranced Candle. If you have the following in place, the Candle will be excellent and Fragrant.
Do not be discouraged if your first try is not as good as you had hoped. These things are easily achieved when you know what to plan and look for.
Make sure you are using very high grade fragrance concentrates. If you wonder what you have, read the article here about the differences between A Grade and B Grade fragrances and those sold by others.
Make sure you use 1 to 1.5 oz of your fragrance per pound. (1 oz to 20 oz liquid wax) You can use less after testing for strength, but start here. With our stuff it will run you out at that level, and you can back off to your desired fragrance strength. Also make sure that your fragrance is mixing completely into your wax. You will know this when you pour into your candle containers. If there is a bunch of unmixed fragrance on the bottom of the pot, raise your temperature next time and stir it in better before pouring.
Make sure your wax is holding the fragrance in the wax evenly, all the way to the top. You will know this if there is not any watery substance at the bottom of the container after it sets up. Also, if your candle has very little smell when initially lit or has to burn about half way down before it starts to smell good, then you know the fragrance is settling down into the lower part of your wax. To make sure this does not happen, add ? to ?? teaspoon of Vybar 260 to your container blend to hold it in properly. This will allow the wax to hold your scent in evenly to the top of the candle after it sets up and in most cases will not noticeably effect the burn of the candle.
So, now you have made sure you have;
Quality fragrance, and you are
Using an adequate amount of it, and the fragrance is mixing properly with your wax, and
Your wax is holding it evenly after it sets up,?
Make sure the top of the candle is level flat before lighting it. This means in most cases that no matter if you are using a one pour wax, or regular paraffin, you will still have to either do a repour if you are using regular paraffin to fill the crater in the center, or if you are using a one pour container blend, you will have to take a heat gun and remelt the top and fill any holes or dips in the top. Ideally, where the wick comes out of the wax will be level, or a little above the edges of the container where the wax touches the edge of the jar. (like a mini pyramid is shaped) If you do not do this, the wick no matter how big it is, will core down and drown out if it is in a well when lit. The candle tops are easily remelted flat with a heat gun. A hot hair dryer will work in some cases also. Take care not to light the wick with your heat gun, people will complain that the candle is used and want to return it if the wick is charred.
5.?? The Whole Secret to a Candle that throws is to know where the ?Throw? comes from. It comes from the melt pool of the candle wax when it burns. The actual fragrance oil burning makes no smell at all. Raw Fragrance only creates soot if burned directly with an oil lamp wick by itself. (don?t try that yourself by the way, its dangerous) This is why Melts or Tarts smell so good when used in a tart melter. The tart melter makes a melt pool to warm up the candle fragrance in the wax pool creating a warm updraft to spread the fragrance throughout your home. The same applies to a Candle. The Melt Pool should be ? inch to the thickness of your pinkie finger at the most. A deeper melt pool can make your container hot and could possibly spill onto your customers table or carpeting if bumped so be careful and find the ideal melt pool for your container by varying your wick size up or down. A Melt Pool of ? inch works fine in most cases and will throw the fragrance as the candle is burning, making the melt pool, and creating a slight heat updraft from the candle that takes the fragrance with it to fill your home.
How do I calculate the burn time of my candles?
Before you light the candle use a scale to weigh it. Once you have the original weight trim the wick and light the candle, letting it burn for four hours. When the four hours are up blow it out, let it cool, and weigh it again. Subtract the weight after the burn cycle from the original weight and divide by the number of hours. The number you end up with is your hourly burn rate.
Once you have the hourly burn weight divide the weight of the whole candle* by the hourly rate and you end up with the number of hours your candle will burn.
Amount Cosumed (Original wt. - wt. After Burning) ÷ Hours Burnt = Hourly Burn Rate
Original wt. (minus wt. of container) ÷ Hourly Burn Rate = Approximate Burn Time
* If you are testing a container candle make sure to subtract the weight of the container from the weight of the whole candle before dividing by your hourly rate.
* Ounces work fine for calculating the burn rate but if your scales has grams as an option we would recommend using that. Since grams are so much smaller than ounces you end up with nicer numbers ( 5 grams/hr instead of .16 ounces/hr. ).
* Although one burn cycle (four hours) will give you a fairly accurate hourly burn rate numerous cycles (three or four) will produce a much more accurate number. The first burn cycle is always a little off because the wick is not yet completely saturated with wax, color, and fragrance.
How much wax will my mold hold?
Although different waxes have varying densities we have put together a quick formula based on diameter and height to calculate how much wax you will need.
Here are the weights per inch of a round candle
2 inch diameter = 38 grams or 1.35 ounces per inch
3 inch diameter = 100 grams or 3.5 ounces per inch
4 inch diameter = 165 grams or 5.8 ounces per inch
So say you have a 6 1/2 inch round pillar mold and you need to know how much wax you will need to make a candle.
You would use the 3 inch diameter rate per inch (3.5 ounces) times the height (6.5 inches).
3.5 x 6.5 = 22.75 ounces of wax to make the candle.
What EXACTLY is Soy Wax?
Soy wax is a vegetable wax made from the oil of soybeans. After harvesting, the beans are cleaned, cracked, de-hulled, and rolled into flakes. The oil is then extracted from the flakes and hydrogenated. The hydrogenation process converts some of the fatty acids in the oil from unsaturated to saturated. This process dramatically alters the melting point of the oil, making it a solid at room temperature. The leftover bean husks are commonly used as animal feed. The U.S. grows the vast majority of the world's soy beans, primarily in Illinois, Iowa, and Indiana.
What are the benefits of soy candle?
In addition to sustainability, a well-made soy candle will burn cleanly and slowly, much to the delight of your customers. While the performance and beauty of soy candles speak for themselves, soy wax is truly a marketer's dream. If you are making soy candles, you can market them as eco-friendly, renewable, American grown, sustainable, carbon neutral; the list goes on and on.
How to Make A Soy Candle
Whether you are using soy wax to make your first candle or have been making paraffin wax candles for years these instructions will give you a good foundation for making soy wax candles.
Soy Wax (for this candle, we're using Ecosoya CB 135)
Glass container (we're using a 16 oz. Apothecary Jar
Wick (for this size we're using a LX-26 pretabbed wick assemblies)
Reddig-glo dye chips or Liquid color (We are going to use 1 Butterscotch Reddig-glo chip for this candle)
Melt 1 lb. of CB 135 (16 oz.) using a double boiler or hot plate. Heat wax to 160 F. (It is also a good idea to pre-heat the glass to about 125 F to avoid "pull away".)
Add the color chip and stir. 160 degrees will work well for 90% of colors. If you ever see little specks of solid color in the bottom of your candles try adding the color chips at a higher temperature (180-190).
Add fragrance. We're using 1 oz. of Hot Baked Apple Pie fragrance oil. When adding fragrance, stir well and remove from heat. Do not let fragranced wax continue to heat as the fragrance will evaporate out of the wax.
When wax cools to 125 F, carefully pour wax into heated glass container.
As soon as the wax starts to set up at the bottom of the container, insert and center the wick assembly. Use a wick bar to keep the wick centered and in place as it cools.
For best results, let the candle cool at room temperature overnight.
Trim wick to 1/4 in. before lighting. (do this each time you light it) and enjoy your candle.
Congratulations, you just made your first soy candle!
When you sit back and light it for the first time take pride in the fact that you just made a eco-friendly candle from an American grown, renewable product. It's carbon neutral for goodness sakes. If it's just for your personal use tell your friends about it. If you are selling your candles make sure you really market it as an environmentally responsible product.
Note: For light colored candles with 5% or less fragrance oil, use our LX-24 NST2 wick. For darker or deeper colors, with more than 5% fragrance oil, go up one wick size to our LX-26.